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- Walk uphill out of Bangor city centre and turn left up this little lane. Keep walking for ten miles and you’re on the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn!
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- It’s a long stony pull up to the top. A sudden sea view, over to Porthmadog I suppose, and some weather incoming.
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- Suddenly the cloud lifted and the views from the Carnedd Llewelyn Sheraton were genuinely extensive.
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- Inside the miraculous ‘welfare unit’, miles from anywhere in the middle of a vast forest. Pitch darkness and teeming rain outside.
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- Inside the shelter on Foel Grach, which is so damp your phone just steams up. A lifesaver in extreme conditions though, I should think.
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- Coming up to Moel Morfydd, Moel y Gamelin behind. Joyfully easy walking and the whole place to myself.
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- The immense cost and labour of building what are now peaceful recreational waterways with eighteenth century equipment is mind-boggling, and of course quite a few of the navvies died in the process.
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- The economics of running a hostel were marginal enough even before Covid-19. As so often, I had the cosy lounge with its books, games and woodburner all to myself, and promptly broke a string on the guitar.
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- A river brings great energy to any settlement, especially if it flows bright and lively. Even London acquires a strange, pulsating life force from the turgid tides and flocculent eddies of the Thames.
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- And at the far end this bridge, which carries you over the neck of the reservoir and out onto the Denbigh Moors.
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- Heading towards Pen LLithrig y Wrach there was no path at all, until I got to that fence and suddenly found a stile.
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- Heading down Pen Llithrig y Wrach towards Pen yr Helgi Du, the ridge is still nice and broad at this point.
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- The River Dee, and more spectacular arches top right – that’s the viaduct built 1846-8 by Henry Robertson, 19 arches and 150 feet high, so there…
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- Famously, there’s no railing on the waterway side. Narrowboat drivers must grasp their tillers firmly while staring into an abyss.
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- Nobody with any sense walks across the Denbigh Moors because they are quite absurdly tussocky and very difficult going!
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- That white sticker explains the terrifying draconian penalties for interfering with Public Footpath signs.
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- These two clearly recognised a fellow beast of burden as they followed me for some way. I think they could smell the pies I’d bought at Llangollen.