c2c-track-to-bangor
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- Walk uphill out of Bangor city centre and turn left up this little lane. Keep walking for ten miles and you’re on the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn!
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- It’s a long stony pull up to the top. A sudden sea view, over to Porthmadog I suppose, and some weather incoming.
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- Suddenly the cloud lifted and the views from the Carnedd Llewelyn Sheraton were genuinely extensive.
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- The completely miraculous ‘welfare unit’, by which my overnight welfare was very much enhanced. Thank you so much, kind windfarm builders, for leaving it unlocked and I’m sorry to have intruded. I left your cabin wiped over and in fact slightly tidier than I found it.
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- Inside the miraculous ‘welfare unit’, miles from anywhere in the middle of a vast forest. Pitch darkness and teeming rain outside.
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- Inside the shelter on Foel Grach, which is so damp your phone just steams up. A lifesaver in extreme conditions though, I should think.
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- Coming up to Moel Morfydd, Moel y Gamelin behind. Joyfully easy walking and the whole place to myself.
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- The immense cost and labour of building what are now peaceful recreational waterways with eighteenth century equipment is mind-boggling, and of course quite a few of the navvies died in the process.
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- The economics of running a hostel were marginal enough even before Covid-19. As so often, I had the cosy lounge with its books, games and woodburner all to myself, and promptly broke a string on the guitar.
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- A river brings great energy to any settlement, especially if it flows bright and lively. Even London acquires a strange, pulsating life force from the turgid tides and flocculent eddies of the Thames.
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- And at the far end this bridge, which carries you over the neck of the reservoir and out onto the Denbigh Moors.
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- Heading towards Pen LLithrig y Wrach there was no path at all, until I got to that fence and suddenly found a stile.
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- Heading down Pen Llithrig y Wrach towards Pen yr Helgi Du, the ridge is still nice and broad at this point.
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- The River Dee, and more spectacular arches top right – that’s the viaduct built 1846-8 by Henry Robertson, 19 arches and 150 feet high, so there…
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- Famously, there’s no railing on the waterway side. Narrowboat drivers must grasp their tillers firmly while staring into an abyss.
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- Nobody with any sense walks across the Denbigh Moors because they are quite absurdly tussocky and very difficult going!
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- That white sticker explains the terrifying draconian penalties for interfering with Public Footpath signs.
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- These two clearly recognised a fellow beast of burden as they followed me for some way. I think they could smell the pies I’d bought at Llangollen.